Baked With Love Gingerbread -Freebie from Dea

Free Pattern for you

Compliments of
ŠDeanne Burton
Dec. 2000
Dea's Crafty Creations
http://dcrafts.com

Let's get started! You will need...
Wooden pieces and patterns- see below
Sandpaper
Graphic paper
Stylus
Paints: Delta Ceramcoat-
~Village Green
~Leprechaun Green
~Bambi Brown
~Burnt Sienna
~Black
~Bright Red
Black Permanent Pen-Micron Pigma OR Sharpie Ultra Fine Pen
Wire- about 18-20 inches
Pliers
Old Toothbrush- for splattering
Raffia-for bow on wire
Krylon Matte Finish Spray
Drill

Here we go!
*any words in RED, see below for definitions of terms.
1. Cut out wood and sand.
2. Base coat the heart VILLAGE GREEN, let dry.
3. Base coat gingerbread man BAMBI BROWN, let dry. Then splatter with BURNT SIENNA.
4. Shade the heart with LEPRECHAUN GREEN and the gingerbread man with BURNT SIENNA.
5. Trace the lettering, if needed.
6. Paint lettering on heart with BLACK and then dot the letters using your stylus.
7. Add eyes on gingerbread with BLACK. I usually use the back side of my brush to make a dot.
8. Place "stitch" marks around the heart and gingerbread man and the gingerbread man mouth with the Black Permanent Pen.
9. Finish it with matte finish spray. Let dry.

You're almost done! A few more steps...
10.Drill holes in wood pieces.
11.Cut wires to desired length. Poke wires through the holes at the top of the heart and leave about 1 1/2 inches to twirl around the tip of your pliers to keep the wire in place. Do the same for the wire that joins the bottom of the heart and the gingerbread man.
12. Add a raffia bow.

*I ALWAYS paint the back of my paintings. It gives it a "finished" look and I actually feel better knowing it's painted. How many of you have picked up something and, first thing, turn it over? Well, that's why I paint the backside of all my paintings!

Approx. size of heart: 4 in. X 2 1/2 in. (11 cm X 7 cm.)
gingerbread man: 2 1/2 in. X 3 in. (6.5 cm. X 7 cm.)

Definitions of WORDS in RED

BASE COAT- to apply the base color to the wood. Some projects will require the whole project to be base coated. Some will need only parts to be base coated.

FINISH- coating your project with a protective varnish. Matte spray gives a better finish than a glossy spray.

SPLATTER-Using an old toothbrush with hard bristles, dip into paint and then flick with your thumb over the required area to be splattered. If you want larger specks, add a little water with the paint. Always test the size of specks on an old piece of wood or a piece of paper first. Be careful, also, because these specks really fly and they can end up on things that you didn't want splattered!

SHADE-Use a 3/8 inch shader brush. This technique requires a little bit of practice. Add a tiny drop of paint on your palette. Dip your brush in water, dab it lightly on a paper towel (In my case, my paint shirt!) Then, lay your brush flat against the palette and brush your paintbrush along the edge of the drop of paint. Now, your brush is "sideloaded". That means that only one side of your brush has paint. The side that has the paint will be the side to use to shade the edge. This is called the "loaded" edge. Lay your brush flat against your painting and drag the loaded edge along the area to be shaded. Alway bring your brush toward you. You may need to turn the wood as you go. Remember, this shading line should look "soft" not hard. You will need to reload your brush, depending on how much you have to shade. It may be difficult at first, but once you get the "feel" for it, you'll be glad you practiced and learned it. It really adds a nice touch to your paintings.

TRACE-Put graphite paper between the wood and the cutout pattern pieces and draw around lines that are necessary only for the base coating. Once base coating is done and paint is dry, then trace any other lines you will need to add the details.